Fes

Fes: Morocco’s Timeless Spiritual and Cultural Heart

Nestled in the heart of Morocco, Fes (sometimes spelled Fez) is a city where time seems to stand still. Known as the spiritual and intellectual capital of the country, Fes offers travelers a journey into a world of ancient traditions, rich history, and vibrant cultural expressions. With its labyrinthine medina, stunning architecture, and deep-rooted artisan crafts, Fes remains one of Morocco’s most enchanting destinations.

A city of deep history

Fes was founded in the late 8th century by Idris I, making it one of the oldest imperial cities in Morocco. Over the centuries, it became a significant center of learning, commerce, and religion. The city flourished, attracting scholars, artisans, and traders from across the Islamic world and beyond. In the medieval period, Fes rivaled cities like Cairo and Baghdad as a leading hub of knowledge and culture.

Today, Fes is divided into three main parts: Fes el-Bali (the old medina), Fes el-Jdid (the new medina, established in the 13th century), and the modern Ville Nouvelle, built during the French colonial period. But it is Fes el-Bali, the oldest section, that captures the imagination of most visitors.

The magic of Fes el-Bali

Entering Fes el-Bali is like stepping into a living museum. With over 9,000 narrow alleyways and streets, it is one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world. Donkeys and handcarts are still the primary means of transporting goods through its winding paths.

Among its most famous sites is the University of Al Quaraouiyine, founded in 859 AD. Recognized by UNESCO and the Guinness World Records as the oldest continuously operating university in the world, it has played a crucial role in Islamic scholarship for centuries.

Other iconic landmarks include the Bou Inania Madrasa, a stunning 14th-century theological college known for its intricate wood carvings and zellige tilework, and the Al-Attarine Madrasa, equally admired for its detailed decoration. The Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts, set in a beautifully restored caravanserai, offers visitors insight into Morocco’s woodworking heritage.

The famous tanneries

The Chouara Tannery is another must-see in Fes. Dating back to at least the 11th century, this open-air tannery is where animal hides are still processed and dyed using techniques passed down through generations. From above, the view of colorful dye pits is both mesmerizing and unforgettable. While the smell can be intense, mint sprigs are often handed to visitors to help mask it.

Artisan traditions and markets

Fes has long been known for its skilled artisans. Whether it’s fine leather goods, delicate metalwork, handwoven textiles, or traditional ceramics, the city’s souks are a treasure trove of craftsmanship. Pottery from Fes, especially the famous blue and white designs, is admired across Morocco and beyond.

The medina’s souks are organized by specialty: from the spice market to the coppersmiths’ street, each section has its unique character and charm. Shopping here is not just about buying goods but also about experiencing the centuries-old atmosphere and seeing artisans at work in small workshops.

A city of festivals and spirituality

Fes is also famous for its strong spiritual identity. Numerous mosques, zawiyas (Islamic religious schools or shrines), and Sufi brotherhoods call the city home. Every year, Fes hosts the Festival of World Sacred Music, attracting artists and audiences from all corners of the globe. This festival celebrates the universal power of music to unite cultures and people, taking place in stunning venues like Bab Makina and historic palaces.

Gastronomy and culinary delights

Fes offers a rich culinary tradition influenced by centuries of cultural exchange. Signature dishes include pastilla (a sweet-savory pie filled with pigeon or chicken and almonds), harira soup (a hearty soup served during Ramadan), and various tagines simmered with prunes, almonds, or preserved lemons. The local markets are filled with olives, fresh herbs, spices, and traditional sweets like chebakia and sellou.

For the best experience, many visitors enjoy dining in a traditional riad, where meals are served in an intimate courtyard setting, often accompanied by live music.

Best time to visit and practical tips

Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are the best times to visit Fes, as the weather is pleasant and ideal for exploring on foot. Summer can be very hot, with temperatures often exceeding 38°C (100°F).

While Fes is a safe city, the medina can be overwhelming for first-time visitors due to its maze-like layout. Hiring a local guide is highly recommended to make the most of your visit and avoid getting lost. Also, wearing comfortable walking shoes is essential.

Conclusion

Fes is more than a destination — it is an experience of living heritage. Its soulful atmosphere, ancient architecture, and vibrant street life make it a place where history is not just preserved but truly alive. For travelers seeking to understand the heart and soul of Morocco, Fes offers an unparalleled journey into a world of tradition, spirituality, and timeless beauty.